15 years ago, this run down of the best dive sites in Santorini would have been a very different beast. For decades Greece banned diving in most of its waters. With so much treasure in their surrounding seas – they had to stop it being pilfered. The ban was lifted in 2005, but a much bigger haul was lost. Fishermen have caught the colourful bounty most snorkelers and divers in Satorini are looking for. But before we pop our flags at half mast and observe the correct period of mourning – all is not lost. Dive centres have staked a claim to a reef, where life has returned. And, if you’re PADI proficient, there are drop offs, walls and even geothermal vents to explore … with care.